The Frida Kahlo Museum (also known as Casa Azul) in Mexico City offers a deeply personal glimpse into the tortured life of the brilliant artist, Frida Kahlo. Arguably, it is one of the most popular museums in Mexico City. Mexico’s most famous female artist was born and raised in the house. She lived there with her husband, Diego Rivera, for a time and ultimately died in the very same home. Being in Frida Kahlo’s home felt intimate. There was an air of reverence amongst the visitors.
Visiting Casa Azul was pretty high on our Mexico City must-see list. Clearly, we weren’t alone in that. Our son and his girlfriend joined us our first week in Mexico City, and this was on their list as well. Unfortunately, tickets were sold out the entire time they were with us. Due to a strict COVID protocol, there are a limited number of tickets each day, so it is understandable.
Ever the optimist, tickets being sold out on the website did not keep me from trying. They can’t tell you “no” unless you ask, right? We arrived before the museum opened one morning. First people in line. When the doors opened, they asked for our tickets. I told them I wanted to buy them there. I was immediately rebuffed, so the kids and I went on about our day.
All the same, the rejection solidified my mission to get through those green doors! As luck would have it, the Christmas break rush relented a bit, and tickets were available online.
As I mentioned earlier, the museum being set in the artist’s home creates an intimacy at the Frida Kahlo Museum that you seldom get. Seeing incredible pieces of art in person is always so moving. What a treat to see Viva La Vida in person, as the detail cannot be adequately captured in a photograph. To think that Frida painted this just days before her death is mind-boggling.
Throughout Casa Azul, there are reminders of Frida’s physical struggles. Perhaps one of the most moving items is the easel adapted to work with her wheelchair. This is said to have been a gift to Frida from Nelson Rockefeller.
This carefully curated vignette includes the mirror Frida used for many of her self-portraits.
Doesn’t this kitchen just scream, “artists live here”? Those are tiny pieces of pottery used to spell Frida and Diego.
I love that they included this sweet needlework pillow on her bed, which translates to “wake up sleeping heart.” Given Frida’s physical limitations, one can imagine she spent countless hours keeping her hands and mind busy.
There is currently (actually, it is probably permanent) an exhibit featuring Frida’s clothes. Again, this is another very personal touch. It is speculated that Frida carefully crafted her style to conceal the various back braces and mobility devices she had to endure.
The courtyard at Museo Frida Kahlo is as serene as it is luxuriant. At first glance, we assumed it was added after the home became a museum (much like the gift shop, haha!). As we walked the gardens, we saw photos of Frida and Diego in the same courtyard. Such a perfect place for creative energy to freely flow. I could have stayed there all day!
This museum is spectacularly curated and beautiful in every way. It evokes a spirit of creativity and commands quiet respect. It is humbling to know that Frida Kahlo never knew the impact she would have on the world. She could never have imagined one of her pieces selling for almost $35 Million. I’m sure she never dreamed she would outsell every other Latin American artist. I can’t help but want to fly the feminist flag a little higher on her behalf. Atta girl, Frida!
Location: Londres 247, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, 04100 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Tickets – purchased on the Frida Kahlo Museum website; 2 tickets for $500 pesos (at the time of this post, approx $25 USD). Definitely recommend you buy in advance.
Concessions – A small gift shop in the courtyard had a limited assortment of drinks. I saw signs mentioning a cafe, but it did not appear to be open when we visited.
COVID Protocol – 4 stars. They did a good job limiting the number of people inside, though several areas were congested and could have been better managed. All patrons wore masks, and hand sanitizer was available.
Restrooms – well maintained, located in the courtyard.
Pet Friendly? – I saw no obvious signage prohibiting dogs, and I’m sure service dogs are allowed. As is usually his preference, Teddy stayed home and napped!
Would we go back? – Yes. I definitely owe Bo a trip!
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